This gives a idea where the righthand side mount must come. The only "beef" to attach this are the 4 bolds at the bottom. So i have to make a very beefy bracket to these bolds. This bracket has to curl around the pulleys.
	This lefthand side mount is easy. It is close to the gearbox's suspension point.
	The bottom engine mount (white) is about 10 cm aside of the adapter plate.
	The drive shaft will be very tricky. It runs close to the exhaust ports, leaving little space for the header. Even more tricky will be the support bearing of the drive shaft. It must be in front of the oil pump. But there is nothing there to fit a bearing bracket. Shifting the drive shaft so the bearing will be in a better place is a option, but i don't want to do that, because i want to keep the driveshafts in the original lenghts.
	With autocad, chipwood and a jigsaw i start to design the engine mount. The big hole on the right is for the drive shaft to stick trough.
	Option 1 of the bearing: an industrial bearing unit. Denied because too lump and it was touching the oil pump.
	Option 2: an other industrial bearing unit. Denied because it should be bolted with spacersn and that would by too weak.
	Option 3: A bearing in a custom housing. The housing is mounted to an extra bracket. This bracket is on one side bolted to the engine mount and on the other side it must be bolted somewhere to the engine's front iron. The bracket must curl around the oil pump and ité lever. Bolting it to the front iron will be very tricky. I have to drill and tap in it. There is also a bearing option 4, which is a custom bearing housing directly on the engine mount. (for this i have to shift the drive shaft) And there is even a option 5, which involves the bearing housing from the original engine.
	Here is the result of a few evenings autocad. It includes an adapter plate, the lefthandside enginemount, an exhaust flange and the 5 options of the bearing. All this will be lasercut from 12mm steel.
	A few pounds of steel.
	I drilled the holes myself in the adapter plate. The dent in the plate under the oil filter is to accommodate the clutch cilinder.
	The left hand engine mount with option 4 of the bearing housing....
	...And option 2, 3 and 5. I want to use option 3, but to be sure i also made all the other options. You never know.
	The adapter plate must be bolted to the engine with countersink M10 fine tread bolts. I couldn't get these from any supplier, so i have to make them myself.
	This is a toyota clutch plate, which have about the same size as the mazda one.
	The clutch lever pivots on this pen. I had to move this pen a bit out (using some washers. Now the toyota clutch lever is in the right position for the mazda clutch cover.
	And now it is time for trail fitting the engine in the car! At this point the matra is still on the road. All the rotary engine prepare work is done separate from the matra. I tried to keep costs as low as possible, keeping in mind the project could fail.